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Home > What Are Pocket Bikes?
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Notes On The Welt Pocket by Joseph Frye
This article is about the welt pocket and how to make it. There are many instructions on welts but this article aims to add something extra and I hope this article is of some use.
Remember what the welt pocket is! You can compare a welt to a square 'mouth' and there is a top 'lip' and a bottom 'lip. These lips are the welts and there is the pocket mouth itself and there is scarcely any gap between the two welts. Think of this structure when making the welt. There is a top welt and a bottom welt and there is the pocket line.
Mark with chalk the wrong side of the jacket where you are placing the welt. The pocket line is also important and should be marked on the right side with chalk or tacking thread. I think what is really important is the width of the pocket line! It is advised however to mark clearly the welt structure on the wrong side. This is the rectangle with the two 'lips' and the pocket line is the dividing line. Decide on the width of the pocket or welt. In Welts are usually 7inch or 8inches in length and here the welt will be 8inches.
Now the introduction is over: Prepare then the welt: Having decided on the width and length, cut this welt out on the bias from the shell fabric or whatever fabric you are using for the welt. Interface then the welt fabric with a suitable lightweight knit interfacing. The interfacing should be smaller than the welt by about 3mm or 1/8inch. Interface also the pocket area of the jacket where you are putting the welt.
Mark with chalk a horizontal line on the wrong side of the interfaced welt the separating at the 4 inch mark. Also mark out a vertical line 1 inch from the sides. These '1 inch' marks will be important for the sewing in of the welt. Then match the halfway line with the pocket line. This horizontal line is the dividing line between the top lip or welt and the bottom welt.
Now you can sew the welt in. Some guidelines state you should sew the welt in on the fold i.e. fold the welt in 4 and then sew in with a suitable seam allowance. You can fold the welt in half to find its halfway point. The aim is to fold four-ways with the interfaced side facing outwards. Thus you are folding inwards. Then sew down the folds using the fold as your guide line with seam allowance of approximately ¼ inch.
Remember that you fold the welt in such a way that the half way line still matches with the pocket line. However instead of 'folding', you can sew the welt in right side to right side i.e. right side of welt to right side of jacket and sew in a ¼ seam allowance from the pocket line.
Thus you have two parallel sewing lines an equal distance from the pocket line, starting and ending at the 1 inch marks. The next stage is to cut into the pocket line so the welt structure can be turned inside and what is left on the outside or right side are the welt lips.
Thus turn the jacket over and work from the wrong side. Fold the working area over and snip into the pocket line. Now starting at the middle of the pocket line and working outwards, begin cutting! Stop approximately ¾ inch from the end of the line and then with a parallel or bias line, cut to the corner but not into the corner. Be careful to stop before the corner. This is important!
Just a note now to write that the marking off of the pocket line is important. If possible have the welt rectangle marked in chalk on the wrong side and have the 1 inch marks lined up against the welt ends. Also when sewing, it is important that both lines are parallel and of the same distance from the pocket line (which is itself marked off against your 'centre' line on the welt. And the 1inch marks are the start and end points for the sewing.
Now pull through to the wrong side. What you see now are the parallel sewing lines. These are invisible on the right side as they lie above and below the welt lips. Be careful to even out the welt lips. Press the top lip welt down and bottom lip up. At the wrong side, lift up the ends of the welt and you can see two little triangles. These must be sewn down. Sew down these triangles and when done turn to the right side. Check again that the welts are smooth and even and stitch in the ditch all around the welt structure.
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The pocket bag can be attached now. You have cut out your pocket with suitable lining fabric. Then with right sides together, sew one end of the pocket bag to one of the welt interfacing and the other end of the pocket bag to the other welt facing. Then sew in the ends of the pocket. Finish the pocket appropriately.
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